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Thursday, March 6th, 2008

Basic Training Commands Every Dog Should Be Taught

Bringing a canine furry four-footed member into the family can be an exciting and fun time. After all, who can resist the cute factor of impish little puppies? The problem is that the cute factor wears off when you start finding your shoes and furniture chewed on and little piddles on your floor and rug. Before you adopt a dog into the family, make sure that you have a game plan ahead of time in regards to some obedience training. This can be some simple commands to provide a basis for good behavior around the home to the more elaborate commands if you decide to join dog competitions with your dog.

The most important reason that dog obedience should be considered is that you will get a well-behaved pet who loves you. Teaching your dog some key training commands will also strengthen your rapport with him and develop a solid relationship. In addition, this obedience training will serve your dog in good stead whenever you travel or have visitor over to your home. So which key training commands should you teach your dog? There are six of them: come, sit, and stay, down, heel and off. Read on for more information about each one:

1. The Come Command – This is the command that can minimize the trouble your dog could get into. Some people feel that it is also the most important command a dog could know. If your dog can respond to your “come” command, you will have an excellent foundation for other commands. This command is especially helpful if strangers come knocking on your door like the mailman, pizza delivery and even cute girl scouts.

2. The Sit Command – When you work on the sit command, it works best teaching it in tandem with the stay command as well. The sit command is especially beneficial to you because you can essentially get your dog to stay in one place wherever you tell him, even if tempting company comes over like other people, dogs or even cats.

3. The Stay Command – This particular command is especially helpful because it can keep your family pooch away from potential trouble. Or, if you are especially focused on a task like cooking or painting, the stay command could keep them away from the area.

4. The Down Command – If you dog is easily excited, chances are that he is a jumper. Unfortunately, not everyone enjoys that type of exuberance, especially from a dog! The down command will help you curb your dog’s tendency to jump when easily excited. Plus, if you wish for you dog to perform a few tricks, the down command is a popular one.

5. The Heel Command – This is an important command which gives you peace of mind whenever you are out, especially in a public place with your dog. The heel command teaches your dog to walk right next to you so that you don’t have to worry about him running off and having to chase him. You can teach this heel command to your pooch both on and off a leash.

6. The Off Command – If your dog is a jumper, the off command can easily curb those tendencies. Some people are frightened when a dog jumps on them, especially children. The off command can quickly diffuse a potentially sticky situation.

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Tuesday, February 5th, 2008

Stop Your Dog Chasing

You’ve seen television shows and comedic skits about a dog chasing cars. Heck, you often wonder exactly what he would do with that car if he ever caught it. The fact of the matter is that chasing is not funny. In fact, your dog could become seriously injured when chasing cars. And dogs that chase cars may also chase other things too like bicycles, squirrels, cats and other animals, joggers and even your children. Dogs that chase may not be malicious about it, but the fact of the matter is, it can be a problem, not only for the chaser but also for the one who is the chase subject.

There are a few reasons why dogs chase animate objects. First, you have to realize that chasing is ingrained in their genetic history; it’s instinctive. Dogs have also been known as predators in the past so chasing sometimes triggers this too. Often times, however, chasing is just a fun pastime and a part of its play makeup. And if your dog is be nature a herder, like an Australian Shepard, then perhaps he is not quite chasing. He may be trying to corral those moving objects, whatever they might be. It is important to be aware that you should not let your dog off the leash until you can curb his chasing instincts. Both he and the designated chase subject could get hurt.

Before plunging your dog into a potential chasing situation, you will want to train him in a situation that you can control yourself, like your own fenced in yard. Your dog should be able to relax and concentrate in this setting so he has the chance to execute the appropriate behavior time and time again. Place your dog on a leash and stand with him. Show him a ball or toy but do not let him have it. Next, throw it away from you and give him the “off” command. When he starts to go after it, give a solid tug on the leash and say “off” again.

You must not allow him to get to the toy you have thrown. Otherwise he will associate the “off” command with chasing and trying to get the toy. The scenario should be practiced in brief sessions several times a day until your dog understands and consistently performs properly. Be sure to heap lot of praise on him and give him a special treat each time he gets it right.

Once he grasps this new “off” game, practice this in other controlled places as well like the inside of your home or a friend’s yard. By changing the venue, you are getting him accustomed to following the command no matter what the situation. Be prepared to backtrack a bit at first with the new places. However, eventually, he will perform consistently no matter what. At this time, release the leash and allow it to drag behind your dog but within easy access should you have to grab it or step on it to stop him. Practice the “off” command again in different settings. When he has grasped the concept of “off” whether you have a hold on the leash or not, it is time to test his abilities in public.

The best place to try out his new “off” command is to enlist the help of a friend to masquerade as a runner. Have your friend run back and forth while you hold your dog’s leash. Every time your dog tries to go for your friend, give him the “off” command. When he performs consistently and correctly while on the leash, then you can try and release the leash to see what happens.

Chances are you will have to repeat this process with a variety of things like cars and other animals. Don’t wait until your dog is running full steam ahead to use the “off” command. It is important to stop the action before it even starts. That is why you must be vigilant every time you take your dog out. And if your dog just loves the thrill of the chase and won’t consistently respond to the command, then you will probably have to keep him leashed.

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Tuesday, February 5th, 2008

Five Mistakes that Do-It-Yourself Dog Trainers Should Avoid

You are to be commended for deciding to train your dog in some basic commands. Not only will your bond be stronger but your dog will also trust and respect you in the owner-dog relationship. The problem with dog training is that most people either do not do enough research into some fundamentals which would help them. In addition, some people pardon the pun; bite off a little more than they can chew. In other words, they take for granted that the “dog training thing” will be a breeze. All it takes is a few treats in their pocket and they are all set right? Wrong!

There are at least five mistakes that most dog owners commit before breaking down for professional advice or at least do more thorough research. If you are planning to train your dog, try and do it right the first time. Read and learn from the five mistakes below:

1. Not being committed to the training. No, this does not have anything to do with an insane asylum. Although, if you don’t learn from the mistakes listed here, you might want to be committed! No, being committed means not giving up. Too often owners get disgusted that progress is not made quickly enough and they quit. If you find that adequate progress is not being made, then it is time to research your dog breed. Perhaps the breed of your dog is known for being hyper or has a herding or rescue instinct. Try and find those traits and make them work for you rather than against you.

2. Not keeping a regular routine. You must follow the same procedures over and over in order for your dog to pick up the training. Don’t start with anything elaborate. Keep things simple and only teach one command at a time. Once they master that command, build on it and add another. Part of the failure problem is that many people try and do too much at one time. By being consistent with your dog during training, they will grasp the commands more quickly. In addition, be sure to implement several short training sessions a day rather than one or two lengthy ones. After a while, your dog may tend to get tired or bored.

3. Not partnering with your dog. What this means is that do not use negative reinforcement to get your dog to do what you want it to. No spanking, kicking or yelling is allowed. By taking a proactive approach through the use of rewards when your dog masters a command, you are building a positive relationship with your dog. In turn, your dog will soon want to please you more and more, thus making the training process a lot easier for the both of you.

4. Being close-minded. Don’t get stuck in a rut or believe that any one particular method is appropriate for your dog’s training. Just like each human is different, each dog is different. They have different temperaments. You have to tailor your dog’s training regiment to their specific behavior. Most of the books that you might read or the videos you watch should be used as guidelines. You know your dog better than a book or video does. Just be sure that any ideas you incorporate be used consistently.

5. Being dull and boring. Spice things up a bit. Training your dog should be fun. While being consistent is important, you can at least change the venue a bit. If you always train in the back yard in the afternoon, try going to a neighborhood park in the morning. Once you are done with your dog training session, you and your pooch can go play. If you are teaching your dog to go fetch, start changing the items being fetched around. One day it could be a newspaper and the next day it could be a Frisbee.

Teaching Dogs Magazine

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Saturday, August 25th, 2007

Stop Dog Biting

According to the CDC (Center for Disease Control), dogs bite more than 4.7 million people per year. Law suits, medical bills and sometimes dog euthanasia are common results from this unwanted - and often avoidable - behavior.

As with any dog training issue, how easy or difficult it is to train a dog not to bite will vary with the breed, age and individual temperament of the dog. But there are some common techniques that will usually help suppress biting behavior.

Wherever possible, start young. Puppies have a natural inclination to mouth and nip. Though it’s often encouraged by owners who understandably see the behavior as cute, human restraint is a prerequisite to dog restraint. Good - and bad - habits start young.

Beyond about the age of four weeks, puppies can begin to learn simple commands. When the puppy moves his mouth to bite, a gentle, but firm ‘No!’ followed by a slight squeeze of the muzzle can help.

Be careful not to cause the puppy to bite its tongue, though. Be especially careful not to squeeze hard or too high up on the muzzle. Dogs have sensitive and delicate odor receptors high up inside the nose. You never want to damage a dog’s ability to smell.

The squeeze isn’t to punish, but to inform. The goal is to help the young dog associate the verbal command with something it can understand at that age - discomfort. Most dogs naturally dislike having their muzzles squeezed at any age.

Along with verbal discouragement and gentle physical restraint or reminders, socializing your dog - as young and often as possible - can help develop calm and confident dogs. Fearful dogs, not used to strangers (whether human or animal), are much more prone to biting behavior.

Expose the dog to other (non-aggressive) dogs. Differences in smell and looks are triggers that can cause dogs to become wary. Introducing them to variety at a young age can help discourage this territorial response.

Most dogs will naturally inhibit biting when playing with litter mates. They nip, but learn early not to press hard. Take advantage of this by ‘widening’ the pack to include family members, other pets and frequent visitors.

Restrain your pet at first when introducing animals from other households. Restrain the other animal as well. Let them approach slowly and sniff or carry out other natural behavior.

Look for body tension, snarling, erect ears and other indicators of oncoming aggression. Make the dog sit, stroke its back and put out your hand to the other animal then convey the smell to your pet. Then allow them to interact.

Dogs normally learn bite inhibition by four and a half months, but don’t be discouraged if it doesn’t happen that quickly. Breeds vary and so do individuals. Older dogs, ones not trained early to suppress biting or not socialized, will naturally be harder to train.

Some dogs will never be fully trained not to want to bite. Part of training involves training people, too. Make sure any such dog is unable to reach other people or animals. And, make sure that people are informed not to try to interact with the dog.

Gradual, persistent, patient training will usually pay off in a calmer, more playful pet. Which, despite the effort involved, is better than paying off lawsuits.

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Friday, August 10th, 2007

Training Rescue Dogs

Normal dog training requires patience that is greater nowhere else but childrearing. Training rescued dogs takes even more.

Though sterilizing dogs - spaying (removing female organs) and neutering (removing male organs) - has been common practice for decades, birth rates continue to outpace ownership. Add to that a percentage who are lost or wander away and the problem grows larger.

The inevitable result is a large number of dogs who often end in facilities where they’re either adopted or terminated.

But, some of these unfortunate animals get a second chance. Either picked up off the street or taken home from shelters they find homes with compassionate and committed individuals who want to help them achieve a decent life. Such caring people can find themselves with more than they bargained for.

Rescued animals have often been physically and mentally abused by former owners, or experienced horrendous conditions before being found. Sometimes, because of impatient or unrealistic owners who found their temperament undesirable, they were simply released to get by as best they could.

Even wild dogs don’t do well isolated from a pack. Untrained dogs, on their own with no other to teach them, fare even worse. But with patience and skill such animals can usually be trained to at least tolerate touching, to refrain from barking at the slightest provocation.

The first step is restoring physical health. Get the dog a thorough examination. No animal is going to be amenable to learning if it’s diseased or the training is painful. Any malnutrition, common in rescued dogs, must first be overcome.

Try to obtain any history. Often this will be impossible, but knowing about any past abuse, temperament or medical history and general conditions is helpful.

Next, try to establish trust slowly. Don’t force physical contact on the dog. Offer inducements to let them seek it from you. At first, instead of offering a treat at close range to a potential biter lay the treat on the floor then step back several feet. Praise the dog lavishly for taking it.

When you’ve worked up to physical contact, which happily some will seek immediately, try rolling them over and placing a hand on the chest. Aggressive dogs will resist and passive dogs will accept this fearfully. Neither response is desirable. Unlike normal training, don’t immediately force the aggressive to accept a secondary role. Take it slow. For the fearful, provide a belly rub and soothing tone to show that being on their backs is not a prelude to punishment.

Rescued dogs tend to be older, mixed breed, have temperament difficulties and come from painful circumstances. All these tend to work against the dog learning the usual range of desired behaviors, and generally more slowly. Some conditions are such that full recovery never occurs.

Exercise even greater patience and care, but don’t let the dog run the household. Even with rescued dogs it’s important that the human be the alpha (leader).

The reward of the greater expense in dollars and time is often a completely devoted and loving companion. Even dogs can exhibit gratitude toward kindness.

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Friday, August 10th, 2007

Do You Understand Your Dog?

Dogs are surprisingly complex creatures.

Some official estimates of the number of breeds reaches as high as 800 in Western countries alone. Even given that distinguishing one breed from another can be carried to absurd extremes, the variety is astonishing from a human perspective, who have, perhaps, a dozen ‘breeds’.

Complicating the picture still further is the well-known fact that dogs have descended from wolves but began domestic interaction with humans over 10,000 years ago. As a consequence, there are behaviors that develop regardless of circumstances and some that are as unique as the human the dog is paired with. Still, some common traits stand out.

Dogs are predators.

That doesn’t mean they necessarily hunt and attack every passing cat or rat, but the capacity is always in them. With acute hearing and head muscles that allow precise orientation of their ears, dogs can pick up a range of sounds and locate the source quickly and with high accuracy.

A dog’s field of vision is higher than that of humans. Their field of view has been estimated from 180-270 degrees, by comparison to a human’s 100-150 degrees, allowing them to track events better.

And, of course, there’s that famous sense of smell. Citing figures such as having 25 times as many scent-receptor cells or being able to sense concentrations 100 million times smaller than humans conveys the fact one way.

Another is to report behavior. Golden Retrievers, for example, can smell gophers through two feet of packed snow and a foot of frozen earth. And, they’ll dig through it to get to the gopher. That’s predatory behavior.

Dogs are social animals.

That’s common knowledge, of course. But, though known, it’s often ignored. Individuals will often lock a lone dog away in a garage or pen, or on a rope in the yard for long periods. This isolation from contact with humans and other animals invariably leads to fear and/or aggression and other forms of maladjustment. Dogs need companionship in order to develop healthy behavior.

Isolating a dog for brief periods can be a useful training technique. Fear of expulsion from the pack can incent overly assertive, alpha-status seeking dogs into alignment with the trainer’s goals. In any human-dog pair, the human must be the alpha (leader). The alternative is property destruction, human frustration and unsafe conditions for people and dogs.

But excessive time devoid of social interaction with another dog, the human, or even a friendly cat harms the dog’s psychology and leads to unwanted behavior. Even guard dogs have to be able to distinguish between external ‘threats’ and members of its own ‘pack’.

Dogs are exploratory.

Like the two-year-old humans at roughly their same mental level, dogs learn by exploring their environment. And like those humans, they can engage in destructive behavior. Dogs are no respecters of property. Training and an appropriately selected set of objects and suitable area can channel that behavior into something acceptable to humans and healthy for the dog.

Providing toys with characteristics very distinct from human property, such as rawhide bones rather than rubber balls that are hard to tell from children’s, leads to less confusion and misbehavior. In many cases, however, the problem is solved by scent. The dog’s toys may look like the child’s, but smell very different.

Some amount of digging may be inevitable as part of the dog’s exploration. Be prepared to patch holes in lawn if the dog is unsupervised for very long. Plants can usually be protected with cayenne pepper paste, bitter apple and other preparations.

Dogs are scavengers

Dogs will eat deer droppings, even when they have perfectly sound and ample diets. They’ll chew on dead rats, eat grass and ingest a wide variety of things that their own experience shows causes upset stomachs. And they’ll repeat the behavior day after day.

Acknowledging their limited ability to connect cause and effect when those are separated in time is a must in order to keep them healthy and safe.

Recognizing a dog’s nature, and working within in it rather than against it leads to less frustration for both human and dog. Enjoying the beneficial aspects, such as spontaneous dog hugs (leaning into a leg), paw offering and a head laid on the lap are just a few of the rewards.

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Friday, August 10th, 2007

Training the Older Dog

Of course, ‘you can’t teach an old dog new tricks’ is a myth. Like humans, or many other species, dogs learn new things every day throughout life. My ten-year old Golden is still mentally alert and eager to ‘play’ in new ways.

But, also like humans, learning new behavior is often as much a matter of unlearning old ways. Dogs do have a strong tendency toward habits, and modifying or extending those habits after years of repetition takes extra patience and focused guidance.

Physical limitations should always be taken into account. The three-year-old dog has a huge capacity for running, jumping, retrieval, obstacle course maneuvers and so forth. The older dog may still want to do all those things, even learning new configurations, but tires more easily and loses interest more rapidly.

Take training sessions in shorter time chunks and expect to carry out many more repetitions. Make obstacles lower and runs shorter. Throw the ball two or three times, rather than twenty. Hearing loss occurs in dogs, too. Don’t assume they’re ignoring you when far away and facing away.

Allow for longer recovery periods between sessions. An active game of fetch is still a possible source of enjoyment, but keep in mind the dog will often want to go longer than is safe or healthy. Ligaments get stretched more readily and injuries more likely if you over do it.

Restrain food rewards for older dogs. The desire to reward an older dog for a new behavior is even more pronounced than for younger dogs, of whom we expect more. But older dogs can also more easily be ‘over treated’. They gain weight more readily and shed pounds slower.

As with younger dogs, consistency is still essential. Specific play periods that begin and end around the same time of day help cue the dog. Similar areas for specific activities help provide a sense of familiarity as background for new lessons.

When working with my Goldens the backyard is for tennis ball fetch, the forest never. But that fetch behavior in the yard can be extended to the forest to retrieve fallen deer antlers.

Conversely, digging - a natural behavior in many breeds, almost impossible to eradicate entirely - can be channeled into harmless areas even in older dogs.

For those not lucky enough to have a forest in the backyard, a ten-by-twelve foot area of the pen or yard where the dog is allowed to indulge can help release the urge. The boundary can be marked by variation in scent or ground composition. Even older dogs can learn what is theirs to play with and what isn’t and their sense of smell remains keen.

Focus more on building on the dog’s existing strengths, since older dogs are less malleable. One individual will be excellent at fetch and release, the other more inclined to hang onto the ball. One does well with a Frisbee, the other never gets the hang of it. Rather than force desired behavior, work with each one’s unique nature.

The dog more inclined to hang onto a ball is a good candidate for learning to pull a wagon by a rope. The better ‘fetch and release’ dog can more easily be taught to get a plastic food container. Handy things, since trainers get older too.

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Friday, August 10th, 2007

How To Find a Dog Trainer

Many people don’t have the time, energy or patience to devote to dog training. Few other activities require as much, if the result is to be a safe, well-adjusted dog and a happy human. For some, the answer is to outsource the effort to a professional trainer.

As in any profession, quality and cost vary. And, like many professions - especially those involving human-animal interactions - training philosophies vary considerably. So, you already have some parameters to guide your selection.

Examine your budget and your needs. Depending on where you live, training can run anywhere from free - often supplied on a weekly basis by volunteers to parks or shelters - to $100 or more per session. What constitutes a reasonable fee will vary depending on geography, trainer experience, length of program and your goals.

Examine your schedule. Some training programs are weekly, others more often. You may have to leave the dog and pick it up later. Or, more likely, you may join a program where the training involves you directly. Most will suggest that you spend some time training the dog every day, whether at home or at the trainer’s facility.

Examine your commitment. Dogs, especially early in training, need regular, large blocks of time and attention in order to learn. An hour a day is not at all unusual.

In some cases, ‘boot camp’ training programs are preferred. The dog goes away to a special facility for up to several weeks. The training is regular, long and intensive. Don’t be concerned for the dog. They love that! Near the end, you’ll usually have to participate in order to ‘transfer’ the obedience from trainer to you.

But the results are often amazing. Dogs who ‘graduate’, even when not special service dogs, are disciplined and eager to follow instructions. Yet, paradoxically, these dogs show no signs of being repressed. They’re happy and play with great enthusiasm.

Examine your goals. You may want a dog who can be entered in shows, or you may just want them not to chew on the couch or chase the cat. In either case, regular training is required. How much and what kind will vary with breed and individual temperament.

Some dogs are fearful, either through being mistreated or from a natural tendency toward submission. Some are too assertive, again through abuse or natural striving for alpha (pack leader) status. What training you select will depend on how you want to influence them and what attributes they have you want to shape.

Whatever your goals, budget or commitment you want a trainer who exhibits massive patience and boundless energy, not to mention a deep love for dogs. Most have these characteristics in spades.

Beyond those basics, you’ll want a trainer whose philosophy makes sense to you and matches your goals. Some insist that dog training is more about training the owner than the dog - and there’s some truth to that in some cases. Some are lenient and friendly, leaning toward the ‘touchy-feely’ style. Others lean more toward police or military style training. And many lie between these two extremes.

It’s unlikely that one training style suits all, but neither is it entirely subjective. Even where there are disputes there are common principles that most will agree on. Patience, persistence, consistency and the need for the human to lead are only a few of these.

Ask for recommendations from those you trust and don’t hesitate to shop around. Be prepared to change trainers once or twice to find one suitable for your needs. Be careful, though, not to change on a whim. Dogs need consistency and a regular environment in order to absorb what’s being taught.

Good luck and good hunting!

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Sunday, July 29th, 2007

Have You Got Hold Of Your Free Dog Training Report?

You can get your Free Dog Training Report when you subscribe to our Weekly Dog Lover Newsletter packed with Dog Training, Dog Health and Dog Care Tips!

Here is some of what you will discover in this Ground Breaking Report:

Why So Many Dogs Are Way Out Of Control

Common Mistakes Dog Owners Unknowingly Make

How You Can Tell If Your Dog Is Out-Of-Control

The Top Ten Dog Problems Commonly Seen

Discover How You Could Be Causing These Problems In The First Place!

The 8 Proven Leadership Exercises To Re-Gain Control Of Your Dog!

The Importance Of Putting Together a Dog Training Plan Of Action!

Take a look by clicking on: Dog Lover Newsletter

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Sunday, July 29th, 2007

How To Keep Your Dog From Wandering Off Outside

When you let your puppy roam free outside on the property, it is essential that you keep the little guy enclosed in some form or fashion. And if you cannot fence the dog inside, then at least leash your dog up. This will prevent him from wandering off and getting hurt by an other animal or a moving vehicle.

If you are in search of purchasing an enclosure such as a dog pen or a tie out, here are a few research tips to help you choose the appropriate security item which would suit your dog and landscape best.

Start by asking your self the following 3 questions:

1. Based on how well you know your dog, what type of personality does he have and how well does he handle being confined? Is he the type of dog that will try to escape knowing that he cannot get past a certain barrier mark?

2. When you have an enclosure put up outside, how do you plan on using it when confining your dog? In other words, will you be by your dog’s side at all times when he is out or do you plan on using the fenced in area or tie out as a way to keep him secure when you’re not at home?

3. Based on your dog’s temperament, are you aware of what type of confinement his personality will allow without creating chaos for your pet? Using a secured lead may create anxiety. A fenced in area that is too small may also be a negative experience for your dog.

Can’t I just train my dog to stay on the property without a security fence or leash?

This is a big mistake. Initially when your young puppy is new to the outside world and is just getting used to the fact that he can play around the yard, letting him loose without any security is a dangerous choice. Your dog may not understand what his boundaries are and end up wandering off into danger or being fatally injured from traffic.

Not only is safety an issue here, but the fact of the matter is that it is virtually impossible to train a puppy to stay on a certain area of land at such a young age, especially if there are other houses, sidewalks, and streets nearby. Yes, some breed types can be trained, but to successfully train a dog to stay within certain confines of your property without a fence or leash takes a specific type of dog temperament.

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